How do they get tomatoes to Refuge Cove?

Peeking into the inner bay of Roscoe Bay

After a couple night’s stay in beautiful Prideaux Haven, we crossed Homfray Channel to take a look at Roscoe Bay on the east side of West Redonda Island. Roscoe Bay Marine Park is divided into an inner cove and an outer cove, separated by a drying shoal. Shallow draft boats can enter the inner cove at half-tide or better; going in on a rising tide is best. Having arrived during low tide, we stuck the nose of Got d’ Fever just outside the inner cove for a look, and then continued around West Redonda Island to Refuge Cove on the southwest side of the Island.

Boaters love stopping at Refuge Cove for supplies

Refuge Cove is a popular stop for boaters cruising the Desolation Sound region. It’s a busy place during the summer months with boats coming and going to pick up supplies from the historic store, buy fuel, or to enjoy a meal at the seasonal restaurant overlooking the docks. We arrived in the latter part of the morning, looking forward to purchasing some nice ripe tomatoes and other fresh fruit. We were informed that their store supplies would be arriving late that afternoon, which prompted several questions. “Where do the supplies come from and how do you get them here?”

The supply barge departing Refuge Cove

We got the full story that went something like this — We must first motor our barge across Lewis Channel to the public wharf at Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island, where a truck with a load of fresh supplies will be ready to meet us.

The truck with supplies at the Public Wharf in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island

The truck, of course, had to take the ferry from Campbell River on Vancouver Island to Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island, then drive across Quadra Island to Heriot Bay to get on another ferry to Whaletown at Cortes Island, to drive across Cortes Island to Squirrel Cove.

Loading the sled with supplies

Once we arrive at the public wharf at Squirrel Cove, we unload the truck and start stacking a makeshift sled with a yoke and rope that is used to carefully lower the sled, as it slides down the ramp to the dock below.

Lowering the sled down the ramp

We then start loading the barge, carefully stacking the boxes onto pallets for weight and balance. The process is repeated over and over again until all the boxes and produce have been unloaded from the truck.

The barge being loaded with supplies for the Refuge Cove Store

Then we are off once again, motoring across Lewis Channel in the hopes that the weather will hold for a safe crossing. Back at Refuge Cove, we pull the barge alongside the dock underneath a hoist, where the pallets of supplies are lifted up to the storefront. But we’re not done yet, everything must be stacked neatly on the store shelves and arranged in baskets for that added customer appeal.

What perfect looking tomatoes!

After hearing their story, we came to more fully appreciate the effort it takes to keep a remote island store stocked with goods throughout the busy cruising season. As they finished their story, they jumped in the barge and off they went, headed for Squirrel Cove to meet the supply truck. Squirrel Cove was our next stop, so why not take some photos of all the action. While visiting the public wharf at Squirrel Cove, sure enough, the Refuge Cove barge was there loading supplies to stock their store. It's amazing to think how far those tomatoes travel to reach Refuge Cove. There's also a country store at Squirrel Cove with marine supplies downstairs; they too, were gearing up for the summer months.

Von Donop Inlet on Cortes Island has lots of room to anchor

From Squirrel Cove, we motored northward up Lewis Channel and around the northern peninsula of Cortes Island, then southward to enter Von Donop Inlet. The Inlet is long, cutting far into the Island with lots of room for many boats to anchor.

Hiking the Von Donop Trail towards Squirrel Cove

A two-mile trail, starting at the southeast shore near the head of the Inlet, takes hikers to a road on the other side of the Island; from there it’s another one-mile walk to the public wharf at Squirrel Cove. The trail starts out flat and then becomes a moderate climb, consisting mostly of tall ferns, alder, and cedar making for a lovely forest walk.

The trail leads through B.C. Park land and through Klahoose First Nations land. This is also wolf country, with posted signage warning hikers to keep food put away and pets on a leash. No worries, we left both at home on the boat.