Sunday, June 30, 2019

Castelnaudary, a sweet goodbye



After a day’s journey from Carcassonne, we reached Castelnaudary just after the locks that lead into the Castelnaudary basin closed. Because of the time it takes to go through the 4 chambers, these locks close 15 minutes before the official closing time and are controlled by the lock keeper from a tower.

The old mill at St. Roch Locks
We spent the night tied along the bank on the southeast side of the St. Roch Locks, a set of 4 lock chambers.The remains of two old mills are situated at the top and at the bottom of the lock staircase and date back to the 17th century. They are among the “royal mills” granted to the Riquet family.
Ruins of an old mill at the St. Roch Lock
We transited the locks the following morning, bringing the boats into the “Grand Basin” of Castelnaudary, the largest port on the whole canal.

The Lock Keeper Tower

The basin was dug to feed the 4 St. Roch Locks and to supply a loading port for grain from the Lauragais plains. The Ile de la Cybelle island on the west side of the basin was created to protect barges from strong winds as they turned into the port.


Looking across the basin to the town skyline is enchanting and captures the essence of old France. This was a fitting place to say goodbye. It was time to take a taxi to Toulouse and confirm our arrangements for flying home — for “different latitudes, different attitudes.”




Saturday, June 29, 2019

Carcassonne to Castelnaudary






Our final push from Carcassonne to Castelnaudary was done during record breaking temperatures in Southern France; temeratures reached 110 degrees Fahrenheit. We drank a lot of water; transiting the locks went smoothly, thanks to light boat traffic that day.



Though one can continue along the canals out to the Atlantic, our final stop was at Castelnaudary, a Le Boat Base where we would return our two charter boats.

Ride along with us through our final stretch of the Canal du Midi; no heat included.






Spillway








Lock Keeper's House



Thursday, June 27, 2019

The Citadel of Carcassonne


The Moat was deeper than is seen today, but it didn't hold water

The Citadel of Carcassonne competes with Mont St. Michel and the Eiffel Tower for the most visited site in France. In 1997, this citadel was placed on the UNESCO list as a World Heritage Site.



The fortification of the Medieval City of Carcassonne consists of two outer walls and 53 towers and barbicans (an outer defense connected to a wall) to prevent attack by siege devices. These walls or ramparts run nearly 2 miles around the perimeter of the medieval city.

The towers were built during different time periods. One section is Roman and is notably different from the medieval walls. One of the towers housed the Catholic Inquisition in the 13th century and is still known as “The Inquisition Tower.”



Town inside the Citadel
First-time visitors to the Citadel are often surprised to discover that a living town is located inside its walls. Shops, cafes, and even 50 full-time residents live here.

The Romans settled in Carcassonne during the 2nd Century before the Christian era and initially set up an observation post and defense works. A colony of Roman citizens settled around the fort.

The town spread over the centuries, surrounding the fortification. After the fall of Rome, Carcassonne fell to the Visigoths, who occupied the area for nearly 300 years from about 440 A.D. until 725 A.D. During this period, they restored the ramparts; but the Saracens (Muslims from Spain) suddenly invaded the area in 725. 



The Christian cause triumphed and the Franks (Germanic tribes) became all powerful. The name France (Francia) is derived from their name.





Cuts made on the bias for the archers to defend the Citadel

After the death of the Emperor Charlemagne and following the rapid disintegration of his Empire, the representatives of the local government gradually became independent. This was the beginning of the feudal period, during which the Counts and Viscounts of Carcassonne ruled without interruption for three centuries.
The Donjon Room where important documents were signed and the lord's court sat for important occassions.

This included the dynasty of the Trencavels, who lived in the Citadel. The Trencavels built the Basilica of Saints Nazarius inside the walled city.


The Basilica is known for its beautiful and intricate stained glass windows. The Nave dates from the 11th and 12 centuries, and the Gothic Transept and Choir dates from the 13th and 14th centuries.








Commerce flourished in the region, and it was through these exchanges during the 11th century which led to the introduction of Catharism, or Albigensianism, which flourished between the 11th and 13th centuries in and around Carcassonne.

The Catholic Church considered the Cathars to be heretics. The Cathars refused all materiality in the sacraments and claimed that no event in this world was due to the divine will. God reigned in the invisible world and the material world was the work of Satan. The Roman papacy was concerned over the growing strength of the Catharist church in the Languedoc region, where Rome saw it as a threat to Christian unity. Thus, began the Albigensian Crusade, the armed repression of the Catharist heretics.

Trap Door at the Entrance Gate for dropping rocks or other debris on the enemy


The crusaders marched into Beziers and slaughtered the Cathars, and then marched on Carcassonne on July 26, 1209. In August, the Papal Legate forced its citizens to surrender. Viscount Raymond-Roger Trencavel was imprisoned when he attempted to negotiate his city’s surrender and died three months later in his own dungeon. Simon de Montfort was appointed the new Viscount, who added to the fortifications of the Citadel.

Around 1240, St. Louis wanted to strengthen the Citadel, which was in the southern frontier of his kingdom not far from Barcelona, Spain. His builders started constructing the outer wall around the inner wall; however, it was Philip the Bold, son of St. Louis, who from 1270 to 1285 gave the Citadel its full development and its Royal Defense works.

The Bailey, the area between the Two Defensive Walls

The defense works of the fortress were so formidable, that the Black Prince, son of Edward III of England, was not able to penetrate the Citadel.






Because sentries had to stick their bodies half way out from the ramparts exposing themselves, “hoardings” were used in the time of siege. Stout beams were placed in the square holes at the level of the sentry-way.

Hoardings were used along the top of the sentry-ways
At the end of the beams on the outer side were fitted sloping beams connected together with planks. Flooring was laid on top of the main beams, with a gap left in the planking, which enabled the defenders to stand outside the battlements with a commanding view of the base of the battlements, while being completely sheltered. Carcassonne was the first fortress to use “hoardings” in time of siege.

The Pyrenean Treaty of the 17th century destroyed Carcassonne’s strategic importance by moving the frontier between France and Spain right up to the Pyrenees. The inevitable decline of Carcassonne followed.


 In 1849, the Citadel was nearly demolished; it had been struck off the roster of official fortifications under Napoleon. The Citadel fell into such disrepair that the French government decided that it should be demolished, which caused an uproar among local citizens. Jean-Pierre Cros-Mayreviele, Mayor of Carcassonne; and inspector of ancient monuments, Prosper Merimee, led a successful campaign to preserve the walled city. Architect Eugene Viollet-le-Duc was commissioned to renovate the site. The restoration was criticized during Duc's lifetime. Having worked in Northern France, he made the error of using slates instead of terracotta tiles; slate was more typical of the north as was the addition of the pointed tips to the roofs. Yet, overall, Viollet-le-Duc's achievement at Carcassonne is agreed to be a work of genius.

Wine & Dine at “O’ Vineyards”


Mark and Danielle had scheduled a special Wine & Dine Tour at the O’Vineyards near Carcassonne. We engaged several taxi cabs to transport our group to the beautiful winery estate owned and operated by Joe, a U.S. citizen now living in Southern France. Wine making has been around for thousands of years and is both an art and a science. The growing of grapes is known as “viticulture” and there are many varieties of grapes

Joe O'Connel, Vineyard Grower and Winemaker


Owner, winemaker Joe O’Connell conducts tours of his winery, with wine tasting directly from barrels and tanks at his facility. After showing us the beautiful vineyards, Joe went through the wine-making process that generally consists of five main steps.

First comes the harvesting of the grapes, which can be done by machine or by hand. Most vintners prefer hand-picking, since mechanical harvesting can be tough on the vines and pick up clumps of unripened grapes and foreign debris. 

The quality of the grape determines the quality of the wine more than any other factor in the wine-making process. The moment the grapes are picked determines the acidity, sweetness, and flavor of the wine; however, harvesting is also heavily dependent upon the weather.

Second comes the Stemming and Crushing or Pressing. In traditional and smaller-scale wine making, the harvested grapes are crushed by using a small-scale crusher that uses paddles or rollers.
This machine separates the grapes from the stems
Joe showed us his machine for separating the stems from the grapes and his machine for crushing the grapes.

This machine presses the grapes with rollers

The resulting product is called “must” or pulp, juice that contains skins and solids. For Red wine, the juice is left in contact with the skins to acquire flavor, color, and desired tannins. For White wine, the wine maker quickly crushes and presses the grapes in order to separate the juice from the skins, seeds, and solids to prevent unwanted color and tannins from leaching into the wine.

Fermentation is the third step, which involves yeast. Fermentation can occur naturally with 6-12 hours; however, many wine makers add a commercial cultured yeast to ensure consistency and a predictable result.

Wine Tastings from the Barrels
The temperature during fermentation affects both the taste of the end product, as well as the speed of fermentation. Fermentation continues until all of the natural sugar is converted into alcohol.

Wine Tasting from the stainless-steel tanks
Wine makers will sometimes stop the fermentation process to create a sweeter wine. Fermentation can take anywhere from 10 days to one month or more.

Clarification or Filtration is the next step and is the process in which solids are removed. Dead yeast cells and tannins are removed via a chemical process.


After clarification in a tank, the wine is placed in clean stainless-steel tanks or in oak barrels.


Joe was very forthcoming regarding filtration; he prefers letting the sediment settle to the bottom. Clarification/Filtration of the wine can take place naturally by putting the wine into refrigeration. The wine takes about a month to settle and it is then clear. No chemicals are needed. This keeps the anti-oxidants in the wine, which is what makes Red wine good for you. Red wine is normally sold in bottles with a concave bottom, this helps keep any remaining sediment at the bottom of the bottle while pouring a glass of wine.

The final step is Aging and Bottling. The wine can be either bottled right away, or given additional aging in the stainless-steel tanks or in the oak barrels. Oak barrels tend to produce a smoother, more vanilla flavored wine. When bottling wine, a dose of sulfite is added to help preserve the wine and prevent unwanted fermentation in the bottle.


After our wonderful tour, we gathered in the lovely lounge for a visit over wine then moved to the dining room for a splendid meal.


Joe's wife is an excellent chef, who combines French and Vietnamese cuisine to create beautiful, tasty dishes.

If you're planning a trip to Carcassonne, we highly recommend this special wine & dine tour at O'Vineyards. If your time is limited, you can make reservations for the winery tour only.