Prideaux Haven, the Heart of Desolation Sound

Looking back toward the entrance to Tenedos Bay

Departing the large bay of Tenedos, we circled around the peninsula and cruised past Otter, Morgan, and Melville Islands, which lie along Homfray Channel.

Cruising through the islands of Homfray Channel

All of the iconic mountain peaks of Desolation Sound are clearly seen from Homfray Channel, weather permitting.

There are many nooks and crannies to explore in the Prideaux Haven area of Desolation Sound

Continuing northeastward, next in line is Prideaux Haven, a collection of coves with hidden anchorages and many stern-tie installations for visiting boaters. When Desolation Sound is the topic of discussion, Prideaux Haven is the first destination people think of; and it’s no wonder, the beautiful clear water and the numerous nooks and crannies are a delight to explore by kayak or dinghy. The main anchorage coves include Laura Cove, Melanie Cove, and the main basin of Prideaux Haven. The coves are well protected and the views are varied and enchanting.

Look for the cairns at the head of Melanie Cove for the trail to Laura Cove

Most boaters spend their time exploring the smaller hidden nooks by kayak and dinghy, or taking in the beautiful scenery while relaxing on a sunny afternoon. The trails in the area, however, aren’t as well known and can be difficult to find without some clues.

Our dinghy anchored near the head of Melanie Cove

At the head of Melanie Cove, a half-mile trail leads to nearby Laura Cove. We took the dinghy to the head of the Cove and spotted two sets of cairns on a large flat rock, a clue as to where the trail might start and where to tie the dinghy. Sure enough, after scrambling up the rocks and through the bushes, we found the trail that headed off in the direction of Laura Cove.

We found a number of fallen trees over the trail to Laura Cove

The trail is well-worn so you can’t get lost, but there are numerous trees that have fallen across the trail, requiring going under, over, or around them – one needs to be a bit flexible at times.

When the trail started heading back down a valley, we knew Laura Cove was not much farther. After achieving our goal, it was a hike back up the hill again and back down to Melanie Cove. It was good exercise, but I couldn't resist making the comment to Leonard, “you know, we could have just gone by dinghy around the corner, which would have taken only a few minutes!” At least we now know that there’s a trail here and where it goes.

Look for the trail sign along the south shore of Melanie Cove for the trail to Tenedos

Our next goal was to find the trail at Melanie Cove that leads to Unwin Lake near Tenedos Bay, a one-two hour hike (4 hours round-trip). A few days earlier, we had hiked the trail from Tenedos Bay to beautiful Unwin Lake and saw that the trail continued on. We learned from our research that the trail went all the way to Melanie Cove. With our dinghy, we motored along the south shore of Melanie Cove and spotted a trail sign just above a rock outcropping. We tied the dinghy off to some rocks and began our exploration. The trail starts out steep and then becomes a reasonably moderate climb.

Signage points the way to a small lake overview and the trail to Tenedos

About a half-mile in, we came upon a fork in the trail with signage confirming that the trail goes all the way to Tenedos Bay via Unwin Lake. Success, we confirmed where the trail begins in Melanie Cove.

The small lake overview, a side trail on the way to Tenedos Bay

We took the left fork, which leads to a small lake overview instead of taking the longer journey to Unwin Lake; after all, we had already seen this beautiful lake from the other side. It was getting late and time to return back home to Got d' Fever for some well-earned rest and a hot-cooked meal. Java, our mini-dachshund, was happy to see and gave us a warm welcome home.

Exploring Tenedos Bay

Lovely Tenedos Bay

From our anchorage in Galley Bay, we motored northeast up Homfray Channel to Tenedos Bay, which is inside the designated Desolation Sound Park.

This beautiful boat was anchored in the southwest corner of Tenedos Bay

This large bay has several nooks and coves that are great for exploring by dinghy, while passing scenic granite cliffs and beautiful Madrones; the entire bay is quite lovely.

The Madrones along the cliff sides are beautiful

There are 14 stern-tie installations around the bay, and anchorage spots in some of the smaller coves. The 3 stern-tie pins on the northern shore are situated above deep water (well over a 100 feet) making this a challenging up-slope anchorage off the bow with a stern-tie to shore.

Stern-tie Pin and Chain allow more space for boats to occupy the bay

The pins on the eastern side of the shore (the 3 near the head) are the most coveted spots above 30-40 feet of water.

A nice dinghy landing in Tenedos Bay

The northeastern side of the bay is also the access point to go ashore and hike the short trail leading to Unwin Lake; it’s a nice place for a swim if you’re so inclined.

A bird keeping watch at the dinghy landing

After anchoring Got d' Fever in the southwestern cove of Tenedos, we headed out by dinghy to explore the Bay. In preparation to go shore and hike the trail, we anchored the dinghy off the stern and tied the bow off to the shore.

Hiking the trail to Unwin Lake from Tenedos Bay

A few camp sites are located just upland near the head of the trail (camp sites are also available at Grace Harbour).

Beautiful Unwin Lake is a great place for a swim

After reaching Unwin Lake, the trail continues to a couple of smaller lakes and beyond, all the way to Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven on the northern side of this BC Mainland peninsula. It takes most people about 1 to 2 hours to hike the entire trail one way.

A seal pup sunning himself

After returning back to the mother ship, we enjoyed watching a group of seal pups play in the cove near our boat; Leonard described the scene as the seal-pup daycare center. They were definitely cute, peeking their heads up above the water and playing among themselves; one seal decided to sunbath on a rock, while his siblings played.

BC’s Iconic Desolation Sound

The inlets of Okeover, Lancelot, and Theodosia are just outside the Desolation Marina Park boundary. Pretty coves and nice anchorages can be found in these inlets, which are seldom visited by boaters.

The lovely cove behind Susan Islets off of Lancelot Inlet makes for a nice anchorage

After a nice evening with friends at Okeover, we headed up Okeover Inlet, turning north into Lancelot Inlet and discovered a pretty cove tucked behind Susan Islets.

The large bay at the end of Theodosi Inlet is seldom visited by pleasure boats

From here you can enter Theodosia Inlet; the second neck of this inlet leads into a large bay. The area feels quite remote; although there is log booming along the southeast shore of the bay, there's lots of room to share. An extensive drying flat is at the head of the bay, which might provide some bear viewing opportunities.

Heading back out these inlets, we turned northwest into Wootton Bay, which is within the Desolation Park boundary; however, a good portion of the shore lands within the bay are private with “absolutely no trespassing” signs posted. The bay is intriguing, peaceful, and beautiful.

Peaceful Wootton Bay is a hidden gem

We put the anchor down for a short lunch stay and enjoyed the peaceful setting. From our boat we could see an open grassy area with what looked like the remains of an old orchard.

Our curiosity ran wild viewing these sculptures at Wootton Bay on the grassy knoll

We could also see what looked like wood or stone sculptures. Was this the site of an old homestead? Or the home of an artist? Or is this a First Nations Site? Research thus far has failed to tell us anything about this intriguing spot. While visitors can't go ashore at the most attractive spots, Wootton offers a pleasant overnight anchorage.

Grace Harbour within Desolation Marine Park has plenty of space to anchor

From Wootton Bay, we circled around the southern end of Gifford Peninsula into Grace Harbour, a bay within Desolation Sound Park with plenty of anchorage and 16 stern-tie installations for visiting boaters.

Three boats stern-tied in Grace Harbour; it's party time

When Prideaux Haven on the northeast side of the Park is full, boaters can often find space in Grace Harbor on the southwest side of Desolation Sound Marine Park.

Desolation Sound is one of the most beautiful locations in British Columbia and one of the most popular destinations among boaters. In clear weather, the scenery is breath-taking. Captain George Vancouver first sailed these waters in 1772; seeing the landscape as remote and forbidding, he named the area Desolation Sound.

Desolation Sound is breath-taking, making even the largest boat feel small

Galley Bay has 9 stern-ties to choose from or find room to anchor

Continuing our clockwise direction around Gifford Peninsula, we stopped at Galley Bay to spend the night. Located on the northwest side of the peninsula, Galley Bay offers anchorage and 9 stern-tie installations for secure moorage and is within the Desolation Sound Park boundary.

Our backdoor view from Galley Bay

The bay is divided by a small point; we chose the western portion of the bay, which in our opinion, has the best views of Desolation Sound; however, the stern-ties in the eastern portion are positioned above deeper water and easier to use. Galley Bay is another one of those not as well-known hideaways.

Reaching Okeover

Docks at Powell River tucked behind the breakwater along the Strait of Georgia

From Comox we crossed the Strait of Georgia, approximately 20 miles, to the town of Powell River. The seas were relatively calm for a nice crossing. The docks at Powell River’s Westview Harbour remain unchanged, with continued talk about expanding the harbour sometime in the future. We had the pleasure of meeting a couple from Wisconsin moored at the docks on their 27-foot Ranger Tug, which had been transported to the West Coast. As often happens, the subject of flying came up; turns out George is a pilot, who owns home-built experimental aircraft. Of course, you can guess where the conversation went from there.

The beautiful Copeland Islands near Lund BC

From Powell River we continued northwest up the Strait of Georgia, which was flat clam, quite unusual for this body of water.

The Copeland Islands

Reaching the Copeland Islands just north of Lund, we confirmed that stern-tie pins and chains had been installed by BC Parks and the BC Marine Parks Forever Society.

One of several stern-ties found in the Copeland Islands

We saw a few boats anchored in a couple of coves, perhaps unaware of these new stern-ties.

Stern-ties can be difficult to spot as the chains and metal pins blend in with the gray rock outcroppings. Using binoculars helps locate these installations, while scoping out the appropriate depths for your boat.

The yacht, LaPerouse, seen in the distance approaching Okeover docks

After visiting the Copeland Islands, we headed towards Desolation Sound and circled around Sarah Point, heading back south down Okeover Inlet to stay overnight at the Okeover Harbour Authority docks and to enjoy dinner out at the Laughing Oyster. Coincidently, our friend Marc with his beautiful 65-foot yacht, LaPerouse (named after the French explorer of the 1700’s who explored the north Pacific Ocean) also arrived at the docks. Being French himself, Marc feels an emotional connection with this French explorer. We had a great time together sharing photos, stories, and slide presentations. With our upcoming canal trip to France, Marc was pleased to share his knowledge and tips about the Canal du Midi and shared his "MS powerpoint” slide presentation of the French canals.

Got d' Fever and LaPerouse at the Okeover Harbour Authority Docks

We, along with Marc and his two friends, hiked up the road to the Laughing Oyster restaurant, which overlooks the harbour and inlet. The views are fabulous and the food is excellent; it’s not surprising that reservations are a must at this popular restaurant.

The Laughing Oyster Restaurant

The Laughing Oyster offers buffet dinners on certain nights as scheduled; on other nights, you can choose specialty dishes from their menu. The Seafood Buffet is offered every Wednesday year-round; then in the spring and fall, a buffet is offered on Fridays and Sundays, with Sunday being family night.

As it turned out, we were there on a Sunday; nevertheless, the atmosphere felt special with the beautiful views, live music, and linen set tables. The quality of food is excellent and the buffet price is very reasonable. On menu nights, selections include the Barbecued Wild Salmon Filet, lightly spiced and seared on a red-hot grill; Crisp Oysters, baked in butter with a French tartar sauce remoulade with capers and grainy mustard; and the Rack of Lamb roasted with olive oil and French plum sauce. Starters include the Seafood Bisque, a lobster broth with cream and sherry. We recommend the Lemon Semifredo, a lemon soaked sponge cake layered with icy lemon curd, almonds and cream for dessert.

Views from the Laughing Oyster are fabulous

Stop, Stay and Play

An oyster fish boat approaching Deep Bay Marina

Departing Schooner Cove, we continued up the Strait of Georgia with lumpy seas that subsided later in the morning. We pulled into Deep Bay to investigate this work-boat harbour. The marina in Deep Bay was filled with commercial fish boats and aged pleasure craft, which were rafted two-deep in many places. We didn’t see any available guest space since moorage appeared to be mostly filled by local boats. Little to no room is available for anchorage due to the oyster farms and private buoys filling the outer harbour.

Chrome Island Lighthouse

Continuing northwest, we passed beautiful Chrome Island Lighthouse and then tucked behind Denman Island on our way to Comox.

Red Light at the Denman-Buckley Ferry Crossing, Boats Stop and Wait

It’s always fun to see the cable ferry that runs between Denman Island and the community of Buckley on Vancouver Island. The Denman-Buckley ferry runs on three underwater cables across Baynes Sound.

The Denman-Buckley Cable Ferry

When the light at each terminal is illuminating red, boats are to stop until the light turns green before crossing the ferry lane. It’s a short passage so the wait is often negligible but necessary so as not to foul cable lines.

After reaching Comox, we checked in with the harbourmaster and then enjoyed dinner out at our favorite Indian restaurant.

Church Street Bakery with wood-fired breads, Comox BC

Yes, Leonard scoped out the bakery in town for our morning croissants and artisan breads. Seems this cruise has turned into the “bakery circuit.” Perhaps we should have a page in the Waggoner Cruising Guide about all the good bakery stops. We will probably return home with a few extra pounds onboard Got d' Fever.

Comox park pavilion with a splash park for children

We spent two nights at the docks in Comox, catching up on edits and other Waggoner work. Comox is a fun place to spend some time with many shops, cafes, and nice parks.

Young children love the Splash Park in Comox

The park just upland from the harbour offers picnic tables with seasonal food trucks and a splash park that’s popular with children.

On the east end of town, you’ll find the beautiful Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park. The lodge/home was built in the late 1920’s as a summer estate, which later became the Filberg’s permanent home. Bob and Florence Filberg had made their money in the logging industry.

You can walk the Boardwalk and enjoy the Beautiful Views at Comox Harbour

Comox has a mix of young and old, but is mainly a retirement community with all the right ingredients – small, charming, and great views.

Transient Moorage at the Harbour Authority Docks in Comox

First-Class Marina in the Making

Entering the Breakwater at Fairwinds Marina in Schooner Cove

While some marinas are struggling with funding to rebuild and make repairs, Fairwinds Marina, tucked inside Schooner Cove off the Strait of Georgia, is making steady progress replacing aging docks and constructing upland buildings. David Kratt, Marina Supervisor, was most gracious and helpful in providing us with information regarding current plans for the marina.

The large upland building under construction will house the new marina office, showers and restrooms, commercial spaces, and a restaurant/café venue. A five-story condo building is going up next door. Both buildings are anticipated to be completed during the 2020 cruising season. The nearby Fairwinds Golf Club is part of the resort, and the marina can provide shuttle service to the golf course; rental clubs are available. Future plans for the marina include widening Dock A for public viewing, with an additional gangway. Access to other docks will be by secured access gates.

Looking out towards the Strait of Georgia

With these improvements and more to come, Fairwinds will be a first-class marina, making the guest check-in requirements worth it. Transient guest space is by reservation with proof of liability coverage in the amount 2 million. Pre-registration is recommended when making a reservation. Schooner Cove provides good protection from the Strait of Georgia and a view corridor out to the Strait. The views from Fairwinds Marina in Schooner Cove are absolutely stunning.

The views from Fairwinds Marina are stunning

If you’re planning to visit Fairwinds this year, boaters should be aware that the charted red buoy marking a rock awash, just inside the breakwater, has gone missing; plans are underway to replace the buoy as soon as possible; consult your charts.

Fairwinds Marina is one to keep your eye on, with the promise of becoming a first-class destination sporting modern, upscale amenities. Transient guest space can accommodate boats up to 100 feet.

Transient guest moorage is just inside the breakwater